Want 2 Dogs to Like Each Other? Take Them on a Parallel Walk

It’s understandable to hope for instant friendship when you’re introducing your dog to a friend’s pup or welcoming a new dog into your home. They’re dogs, right? They should have so much in common! But for many pups, slower and more intentional introductions are the key to calmer first meetings and successful relationships. That’s why so many trainers and dog behaviorists recommend parallel walking — a gentle, reward-based approach that gives dogs the space to build comfort without pressure.

Lisa Edwards, certified dog behavior consultant, certified professional dog trainer, and founder of Three Dogs Training, compares parallel walking to parallel play in human toddlers. It “allows dogs to get used to each other without the intensity of a face-to-face encounter,” she says. It actually looks exactly how it sounds: The dogs walk at the same time but not in close proximity, which allows them to be “together” without having to actually be together. 

To better understand why this dog-greeting hack works and how to implement it in our own lives, we spoke with Edwards and Carly Walker, certified professional dog trainer, behavioral specialist, and founder of The Polite Pooch.

What is parallel walking? 

Parallel walking is a non-confrontational way to introduce two dogs by having them walk side by side in the same direction (handled by two different walkers), starting with a large distance between them and gradually decreasing that space over time. The goal is to let dogs become familiar with one another without the pressure of a face-to-face interaction.

The setup allows dogs to observe and communicate naturally, Edwards says. “They can see each other, get a sense or smell of the other, and offer cues to the other dog that could say anything from, I’m OK with this; are you? or I’m not OK with this; you need to keep your distance. Walker says handlers should reward calm behavior as the distance between dogs closes, especially in moments when a dog notices the other dog and then looks away to sniff the ground or otherwise disengages.

According to Walker, parallel walking supports relationship-building over time. When introduced gradually, it “allows dogs to safely get comfortable with each other through shared movement” and can encourage bonding. Walker recommends using it regularly when a new dog joins a household or when dogs living together are experiencing tension.

Why is parallel walking better than letting dogs meet face-to-face?

“Parallel walking is like dogs meeting at a cocktail party,” Edwards says. “Most humans don’t go into a cocktail party and start hugging and kissing other people they don’t really know.” True! For many dogs, she says, a face-to-face greeting feels just as intrusive as that unwanted cocktail-party kissing.

That’s why trainers often discourage on-leash, head-on greetings. According to Walker, when dogs meet nose-to-nose, this can be “extremely confrontational and actually unnatural” for them. Dogs typically prefer to approach each other indirectly, using side-to-side movements, circling, and sniffing. Leashes can interfere with those natural behaviors, forcing dogs into direct contact and creating tension.

Parallel walking offers an alternative that better matches how dogs naturally socialize. By moving in the same direction at a comfortable distance, dogs can focus on calming, enjoyable activities like walking and sniffing while gradually becoming aware of each other. Over time, they begin to associate the presence of another dog with a positive, low-pressure experience.

How far apart should dogs walk during parallel walking?

“It’s always better to start with too much distance versus not enough distance,” Carly Walker says. As a general guideline, she suggests starting at about 20 feet apart, or, if you’re walking on a road, placing one dog on each side of the street. At that distance, dogs should be able to move in a relaxed way, sniff, and explore. Getting familiar with a dog’s body language is hugely helpful for both dogs and their guardians; in this situation, a low, slow wagging tail is a good sign that they’re comfortable.

From there, the distance can be reduced gradually, but only if both dogs remain calm. Lisa Edwards recommends looking at what they’re saying with their body before making any changes. If dogs show “a soft body and general soft eyes with occasional glances to the other dog,” she says, the walk can continue at that distance. If calm behavior persists, the gap can be shortened by a foot or two and then reassessed.

If tension appears at any point, the dogs are too close. Edwards says that things like hard staring, whale eye, raised hackles, a stiff or squared body, teeth baring, or a tail tucked tightly underneath or held very high indicate discomfort. Take any of this body language as a sign that distance should increase again. Walker adds that hyper-focusing, pulling toward the other dog, growling, or barking are also signs that it’s time to create more space.

Is parallel walking right for every dog?

Parallel walking only works if a dog can remain calm enough around another dog to actually learn from the experience. For some dogs with severe leash reactivity, that’s just not realistic. These dogs need so much distance from other dogs to stay regulated that, Edwards says, “the distance they would need to be from another dog is almost impossible to achieve even in a perfect setting.”

This means the dog can’t stay “under threshold,” a training term that describes the point at which a dog is calm enough to think, process information, and form positive associations. Once a dog goes over threshold, their nervous system takes over and learning stops. 

You should avoid or significantly modify parallel walking for dogs who are extremely fearful or unsocialized or who are dealing with pain or compromised health. Forcing a dog to parallel walk while over threshold (barking, lunging, etc.), Walker says, can actually increase reactivity rather than reduce it. In those cases, she recommends other approaches, like Karen Pryor’s Engage-Disengage Game, that are often more effective. 

When a dog consistently struggles to stay under threshold, Edwards says trainers may need to look beyond training alone. “If a dog’s ability to be sub threshold and in a good state for learning and positive association is difficult to achieve, we often look to medication,” she says, noting that meds aren’t a shortcut or a replacement for training. Instead, it can help expand the dog’s window of tolerance, creating “a larger sub-threshold state where learning and positive associations can happen and be reinforced.” 

Dogs who are very fearful, unsocialized, sick, or recovering from injury often need more space and time than parallel walking can provide, Walker says. These dogs may show clear signs of stress, like tucked tails, whale eye, avoidance behaviors, or refusing to walk altogether, and should be supported with alternative strategies and professional guidance.

Why is positive reinforcement a necessary part of parallel walking?

Dogs quickly form associations, both good and bad, with the experiences surrounding a meeting. If a dog encounters another dog alongside discomfort or stress, that negativity can become linked to the other dog rather than the situation itself. 

This is why aversive tools or handling can easily backfire, in this situation and others. “If a dog is on a tight leash on a prong collar,” Edwards says, “the dog receiving the pain from the tight prong could attach the association of that pain with the approaching other dog.” That kind of leash or collar (which Kinship does not recommend) can put pressure can also build frustration, which may escalate into aggression over time.

Research has consistently shown that aversive training tools increase stress and fear and are associated with higher levels of aggression, which is why force-free, positive-reinforcement methods are widely recommended by behavior experts.

For dogs to form healthy relationships, the introduction needs to be free of added stress. “For dogs to have the best association with another dog, we need to be sure we as the handlers are not bringing other negative associations to their meeting,” Edwards says. Using positive reinforcement — like calm handling, distance, and rewards — helps ensure the experience stays relaxed and sets up a more comfortable, successful introduction.

What common mistakes should guardians avoid when introducing dogs with parallel walking?

“Too often, handlers move the dogs closer too quickly before the dogs have time to get used to each other,” Edwards says. Dogs need time to observe each other and communicate their comfort levels before their handler reduces the distance. Edwards also cautions against expecting dogs to become friends.

Not every dog likes every other dog (just like humans) and that’s fine. The goal is peaceful coexistence, not forced best friendship. “It’s not up to the humans,” Edwards says. “It’s up to the dogs to tell us and the other dogs where they are comfortable.”

Walker says another common error is allowing dogs to get too close even when walking side by side. Even brief face-to-face pauses can increase tension. She recommends keeping dogs moving and using a well-fitted front-clip harness, which offers more control than a collar or back-clip harness.

Finally, Walker notes that handlers often miss chances to reinforce good behavior. When a dog notices another dog and then disengages, by looking away, sniffing, or continuing to walk, their human should praise and reward that calm choice. What gets rewarded, she says, is what gets repeated.