“Settle” Might Just Be the Most Important Cue In Your Training Roster

Helping your dog learn to switch off – in or out of the house – is invaluable for them and you. Having “settle” in your training arsenal should mean your dog can tag along pretty much anywhere that welcome dogs, from holiday accommodation and dog-friendly attractions to busy social gatherings (provided your sweet pup isn’t struggling with anxiety or reactivity issues).

“Settle” (or “place” as some call it) teaches your dog to settle on a designated spot, switch off and relax, meaning you can then relax about other things, like important work calls, hosting friends and family and meeting people out and about. It can even help when you head out alone, helping your pup relax when you’re not there.

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What is “settle”?

The cue “settle” teaches your dog to lie down calmly in one spot, on a carry mat or a bed, and relax until you say otherwise. It’s a non-release cue meaning that, provided your dog understands the assignment and there aren’t any mitigating circumstances, you dog should stay in the settle until they are given a specific release word or signal. Alongside “settle”, popular cue words include “place” or “relax”. Once a dog is in “settle”, they should know they can sleep, play or enjoy a treat, as long as they stay in the designated area. 

“Teaching this is incredibly useful and can help give dogs and owners more freedom,” says Joe Nutkins, a Kennel Club accredited dog trainer and canine behaviourist at Dog Training for Essex & Suffolk. “‘Settle’ lets dogs know what’s expected.” 

“The ‘settle’ command can be used at a dog-friendly cafe, a picnic, visiting family and friends, or during a work meeting with your dog under your desk,” says Joe. ”I’ve even used ‘settle’ while at my hairdressers!”

Is “settle” different from “sit” or “stay”?

The true power of the settle cue is its subtle difference from other cues, like sit or stay. “A ‘stay’ is typically used in training to ask a dog to remain in one position (after a ‘sit’ or ‘down’) and remain alert ready for the next cue, but ‘settle’ lets them know they can get comfy on a designated mat or bed and remain there,” says Joe.

How do you teach “settle”?

Joe advises initially training “settle” at home, away from distractions, using a blanket or portable bed you can later take out and about.

“Start by sitting next to the mat – somewhere you tend to sit to read a book or watch TV can be a really good spot as your dog will start associating the mat with settling with you and not doing anything.”

Joe says you have a choice of how you continue the training; the first option is teaching a settle cue, which is easier if your dog already knows “sit” or “down”. You’ll need to be armed with treats and prepared for at least six repetitions.

The second option is using positive association, while the third choice is employing a combination of both approaches. 

Step-by-step guide to teaching the “settle” cue:

1. Guide your dog onto the mat with a treat and ask for a “sit” or “down” (guide them if your dog is still learning!).

3. Give the treat from one hand and, if your dog is OK with being stroked, use the other to slowly but firmly stroke your dog. These calming strokes will help dogs feel settled. Gradually your dog will enjoy the process and stay settled for longer.

4. While you stroke your dog, start adding a cue word like “settle”. Try to use a calm voice that won’t excite them. You can say “settle” once or twice while stroking and giving your dog treats or a toy for being on the mat. 

5. When your dog stands up or moves away, call them back, guide them onto the mat and into a “sit” or “down”, praise and reward while stroking and give the settle cue again. Repeat this 6–10 times in one training session. Gradually, your dog will know what to expect and get on the mat on their own as well as staying there longer. 

6. The next stage is to move your training to other areas in your house and garden, and then outside the home, using quieter places at first.

Positive association and “settle” 

Joe also says that if your dog enjoys interactive toys, such as filled Kongs or snuffle mats, chew sticks or playing with a toy that keeps them still for a little while, you can use this to help with your training.

“Prepare the treat or toy and give it to your dog on the designated settle mat, sitting next to them. You don’t need to do much, but you can say an occasional settle cue so your dog associates enjoying the treat on the mat.”

“Your dog will soon race to their mat when you ask them to ‘settle’ as they will know they are getting something great!” she says.

Joe recommends adding this approach to teaching the settle cue, as well as trying it on its own.

How long will it take to teach “settle”?

The speed and success of teaching “settle” is like any other training; it depends on practice and consistency. It will also vary from dog-to-dog, depending on the age and personality of a pet, as well as the distractions you may have at home (like other dogs).

“I could teach a reliable ‘settle’ in a day,” says Joe, “by using multiple short sessions of around one to two minutes, but most pet owners don't have that time, so you’d be looking more at a couple of weeks plus a little practise time. I’ve known dogs who have taken months to learn to ‘settle’ as there’s not been any practise in between classes!”

Can you teach an older dog “settle”?

Got a grown dog that can’t relax when you need them to? Is teaching “settle” still possible?

“You can train an older dog to settle but you may need to consider extra factors such as whether a dog has their hearing and vision, if they have any joint issues or arthritis meaning laying down for long periods can be uncomfortable,” says Joe. 

While Joe says the methods to teach settle to an older dog would be the same, teaching might take extra time. “I’d also be more selective where I took my older dog as not everyone in a dog-friendly place has a dog that settles or listens to their parent!” she says.

Can you teach a puppy “settle”?

Again, you can use the same methods for a young dog, but Joe says providing an interactive food-based toy while on the bed/mat helps teach them that the mat is a great place to be. 

“With puppies it’s vital they have short sessions as they can lose focus fast and also become mentally fatigued easily. ‘Settle’ in public can be harder with a puppy as so many people will want to make a fuss! This will interrupt training and your puppy could learn that people nearby might be good to go and see!” she says.

Are some dogs harder to teach “settle”?

“Some breeds and breed types can find learning something new more difficult than others because of levels of ability to focus and being less calm,” says Joe.

“Terrier breeds, Beagles and Cockapoos can pose challenges; Terriers have short attention spans but once you find something they like they are very clever! Beagles can be ruled by their nose, making settling in public harder. Cockapoos are ultra-friendly and bouncy so asking them to settle in one place and ignore everything around them is a huge request!”

But ultimately, Joe says all dogs are capable of learning “settle”, as long as you find the right solution for them.

For more help with teaching “settle” (or “place”), or any other cues, check out Kinship’s free training programme from our friends at Gentle Beast.